Winter Fabrics Guide: Khaddar, Karandi, Marina, Linen and Velvet Explained
Khaddar, karandi, marina, linen, cotail or velvet? What each winter fabric feels like, how warm it is, what to wear it to and how to wash it without spoiling it.
By Ali Hamza ·
Key takeaways
- Khaddar is the warm, textured everyday winter staple.
- Karandi is finer and slightly crisp, with a dressier look than khaddar.
- Marina is soft and lighter — good for mild winters in Karachi and Multan.
- Velvet is for weddings and evening events; linen and cotail sit between summer and deep winter.
For a Pakistani winter, choose khaddar for warm everyday wear, karandi when you want a dressier look, marina for mild winters, and velvet for weddings and evening events. Linen and cotail are the in-between fabrics for the start and end of the season. Here is how each one feels, how warm it is and how to care for it.
Khaddar
Khaddar is the winter staple: a thick, textured fabric with a slightly rough, handwoven feel. It holds dyes well, so winter prints in deep colours look rich on it.
- Warmth: high.
- Look: matte and textured.
- Best for: everyday wear, college, office and cold days in Lahore, Islamabad and the north.
Karandi
Karandi is finer and smoother than khaddar, with a slight crispness and a subtle sheen. It drapes well and takes embroidery beautifully, which makes it a favourite for winter formals.
- Warmth: medium to high.
- Look: smooth, slightly crisp, dressier.
- Best for: dawats, family visits and winter functions.
Marina
Marina is soft, slightly brushed and lighter than khaddar. It feels comfortable against the skin and is easy to wear all day.
- Warmth: medium.
- Look: soft and matte.
- Best for: mild winters in Karachi, Hyderabad and Multan, and for anyone who finds khaddar too heavy.
Linen and cotail
Linen is a breathable fabric with a natural texture; winter linens are woven heavier than summer ones. Cotail (cotton-twill) is smooth, soft and slightly warm. Both are excellent for the transition months of October, November and March.
- Warmth: low to medium.
- Best for: early and late winter, office and casual wear.
Velvet
Velvet has a dense, soft pile that catches the light. It is heavy, warm and formal — the classic fabric for winter weddings, often with zardozi or dabka embroidery.
- Warmth: high.
- Look: rich and luxurious.
- Best for: barat, walima and evening events. Browse formal and bridal wear.
For men
Men's winter shalwar kameez usually comes in khaddar, marina, wool blends and heavier wash & wear. A velvet or jamawar waistcoat is the easiest way to look formal at a winter wedding. Read the men's shalwar kameez fabric guide for more.
Choosing by city and climate
Pakistan's winters are not the same everywhere. In Karachi and Hyderabad, the cold is mild and short, so marina, linen and cotail are usually enough, with a light shawl in the evening. Multan, Bahawalpur and the rest of south Punjab get cold mornings and nights with mild afternoons; khaddar for mornings and marina for daytime work well. Lahore, Faisalabad and Islamabad see foggy, properly cold weeks in December and January, when khaddar, karandi and wool blends earn their place. In Peshawar, Quetta and the north, the cold is serious: layer khaddar or wool with a shawl, a sweater or a coat.
Shawls and layering
A shawl is the most Pakistani way to stay warm and dressed up at the same time. Plain wool or pashmina-blend shawls go with everything; embroidered shawls can replace the dupatta for a formal look. For women, a kurti in khaddar over warm tights or trousers, with a shawl, covers most winter days. For men, a waistcoat over a kurta adds warmth without bulk, and a shawl over the shoulders finishes a wedding look.
Winter colours
Winter collections lean on deep, warm colours that look rich on textured fabrics: maroon, mustard, rust, bottle green, navy, plum and charcoal. Prints are larger and bolder than in summer lawn. Pastels and ivory still appear, mostly for velvet and karandi formals at walima functions.
Washing winter fabrics
- Khaddar and karandi: cold water, gentle wash, inside out; dry in the shade. Wash dark prints separately the first few times.
- Marina and linen: gentle cycle; iron linen while slightly damp.
- Velvet: dry clean if the label says so; never wring it. Steam rather than iron, or iron on the reverse with a cloth in between.
Many tailors suggest washing khaddar once before stitching so any small shrinkage happens before it is cut.
Shawls need the gentlest care of all: hand-wash wool and pashmina blends in cold water with a mild shampoo or wool wash, press out the water in a towel instead of wringing, and dry them flat in the shade. Fold them with tissue paper and store them with neem leaves or cedar balls over the summer to keep moths away.
Unstitched or stitched for winter?
Winter collections come both ways. Unstitched lets your tailor add lining and a fuller cut for layering; stitched pieces are ready for the first cold snap. See stitched vs unstitched suits to decide, then browse the unstitched collection and women's clothing.
Frequently asked questions
Which is warmer, khaddar or karandi?
Khaddar is usually thicker and warmer. Karandi is finer and crisper, with a dressier finish, so it suits outings and dawats while khaddar suits colder days and everyday wear.
Does khaddar shrink?
Khaddar can shrink a little on the first wash. Washing it in cold water, by hand or on a gentle cycle, and drying it in the shade keeps shrinkage small. Many tailors suggest washing the fabric once before stitching.
What should I wear to a winter wedding?
Velvet or a heavily embroidered karandi or organza formal with a shawl for women; boski or wool-blend shalwar kameez with a velvet or jamawar waistcoat for men.